Ancient traditions meet modern sustainability: indigenous artists and fur design

  In the indigenous communities featured in the Vogue article, the use of furs and skins has long been a part of life, both for subsistence and to survive the cold winter months. Jenni Brower, a clothing designer in Anchorage, learned how to use animals to their full potential when she was a young child.

As Brower says: "We have always been sustainable in what we hunt. Seal meat is an important part of our diet. As a young adult, my aunt taught me how to skin a seal and process the meat. When we cook it, we use almost all of it."

Brower, the founder of the Arctic Luxe brand, makes traditional handmade parkas (atigis) with fox and wolverine spray or spotted sealskin. Her designs reflect indigenous teachings that all parts of the animal should be used. "We have always been very sustainable in everything we hunt" - says Brower.

Meagan Anishinabie, an artist from the Sandy Lake First Nation in Canada, also takes a similar approach. Anishinabie makes all of her handmade beaded mukluks, earrings, gloves and hats from skins she has trapped and tanned herself. "We often give the meat to our family or anyone who needs it." - says Anishinabie.

But the sustainable design approach of indigenous artists is at odds with trends in the global fashion industry. In recent years, a number of luxury brands such as Versace, Balenciaga and Gucci, as well as large retail chains like Saks Fifth Avenue, have banned the use of fur. Despite this, indigenous artists continue to use fur, respecting animals and traditions. "We indigenous people use furs out of respect" - says Oscar Golga, a Yup'ik artist from Bethel.

In indigenous communities, hunting is important not only for fur, but also for food security. However, climate change is making it increasingly difficult for indigenous hunters to obtain prey, and with it the use of traditional materials and techniques. According to Oscar, dead marine mammals are increasingly being found on Alaskan beaches, making hunting difficult.

Despite growing environmental challenges, indigenous artists like Brower, Oscar and Anishinabie continue to innovate with their unique designs and carefully sourced furs. "Traditional design is like medicine - it is healing for me" - says Brower. "It keeps me in touch with my people and our traditions. It shows the world that we're still here, we're still doing this, and we're going to keep doing it, whatever happens."

Cover image source: Vogue
Source: furlove.eu